Tuesday, 31 March 2015

India and Pakistan: Wagah nightly border closing


There’s so much history between India and Pakistan, it felt almost voyeuristic to attend a border closing ceremony. Would it reflect the past antagonism? Was it almost provocative for both sides? It turns out, it’s neither.

The ceremony happens nightly just outside of Amritsar, and it completely blew me away. As soon as we began to wade our way through the crowds we were inundated by an affront to the senses – people hawking flags, face painting, patriotic wares… the atmosphere had that jubilant, festive feel. 



Despite the fact this is a very regular occurrence and we attended on a week day evening, the place was packed, to the point that not all the revellers could fit within the confines of the ceremony area.

Filtered through to a specific tourist area, we were seated in a designated section with a small handful of others. As we waited patiently for the spectacle to begin, locals filled the seats, and music thronged through the air. Groups of girls and woman spontaneously gathered and danced as popular Hindi songs blasted, while spectators cheered and sang along. 


 Above us giant flags were waved, and the event really started. Processions, precise choreography, impeccable pressed uniforms, cracking moustaches, impressively synchronised marching and the most fantastic high kicks – it’s about as full of character as you can get, all against a backdrop of the setting sun. 


As the ceremony drew to a close, both sides passionately cheered their allegiance, whipping up into a delighted frenzy as the evening was sealed and drawn to a close with a handshake, and the gates were shut.


It was a phenomenal thing to witness, and highly recommended – a spectacle you shouldn’t miss.

Friday, 27 March 2015

Four amusing, interesting or downright quirky things the internet has thrown up this week




Four things that have made me chuckle, snort and even guffaw this week, courtesy of the World Wide Web. 

This week hearts broke across the land, from middle-aged petrol heads polishing their prized automobiles to teeny-boppers in bedrooms festooned with 1D posters. But there’s a silver lining in this cloud of pop-culture gloom, people, and it comes in the form of this surprisingly difficult who-said-it from the Independent. Who knew Jeremy Clarkson fans and One Directioners were so similar?

Whether or not you watched the debates on Paxman last night, or you just like to mock those in authority, Shortlist’s politicians-who-look-like-the-Muppets list is pretty funny. Personal favourites go to Johnny Fiama/ Silvio Berlusconi and Sam the Eagle/ Alistair Darling. I reckon Bo Jo would be pretty chuffed to find himself side-by-side with Fozzie Bear....

If you did miss last night’s election debates, The Guardian has this searingly brilliant, witty piece that will have you spluttering over your coffee as well itching to watch the whole thing. And I don’t just say that because the author begins with what is possibly the most wise thing I’ve read all week: “If the people of Britain were allowed to go to the polls immediately after Cameron & Miliband: the Battle for Number 10, there’d a landslide. And our new prime minister would be Jeremy Paxman”.

This has become an accidentally political list… but there’s nothing more British than debating the merits of our politicians, so I’ll power on. The Amazon reviews for Nigel Farage’s political memoir, ‘The Purple Revolution: The Year That Changed Everything’ are a cross-section of evangelical fans, tongue in cheek comments and some pretty stinging critics. Certainly a read that’s divided people, and regardless of your views on Farage, it’s refreshing to see people being so impassioned by politicians.

Monday, 23 March 2015

Edinburgh Meadows: Top Five for Alfresco Lunch



Whether it’s a break between Edinburgh Festival Fringe shows or just a rare sunny day, there’s nothing nicer than an Edinburgh afternoon whiled away in one of the city’s most central parks. Except whiling away the time while getting stuck into something delicious at the same time. As someone who has plenty of experience in doing both, here’s my top 5 for a tasty lunchtime treat.



Susie’s Wholefood Wagon Based in the Meadows on random days (check facebook or their website), this vegetarian and vegan food truck tends to tuck itself in the shadows of the Meadow’s wall that runs parallel to George Square. For those of you who shiver at the idea of vegan or even vegetarian chow, stop right now – the enchiladas here are simply mouth-watering. Baked flour tortilla stuffed with spicy roast veg, bean chilli, cheese, guacamole, salad, soured cream... truly, it’s a beautiful thing. There’s a changing hot special plus falafel and sweet treats too.

Tupiniquim Brasil Crepe Located at the top of Middle Meadows Walk (as it hits Lauriston Place) in an old police box, the friendly couple who tend the stand here blast Brazilian tunes as they merrily make a concoction of delicious gluten-free savoury and sweet crepes. The savoury numbers are wonderfully filling and in the region of £4. Wash it all down with a freshly squeezed juice – perfection. Locals love this place, so even if there’s a queue, it’s totally worth the wait. Mouth-watering menu and more on their temperamental website here.

Union of Genius There’s a cafĂ© on Forest Road and their ‘Dumbo’ soup van on George Square too. This place was crowd-funded, which I love, but thankfully their goods are up to scratch too. It seems I’m not the only one who thinks so, as their homemade soups are award winning.  Try a Celtic Kelpie (chicken, almond, kale and seaweed) or a ‘Soup of Ezo the Bride’ (Syrian bulgar wheat, paprika and mint).  Follow both on twitter or visit their website for updates of their daily soups. They do breakfast and a range of salads too. 

Ting Thai Caravan I’ll start this one with a disclaimer: the service here can be a little abrupt. It’s a feverishly busy place, but when you get down to the nitty-gritty, it simply serves delicious Thai street food, to sit in or takeaway. It’s cheap and cheerful, and close by too on Lauriston Place. 

Peter’s Yard Ok, it’s not exactly the cheapest option, but if you’re looking for a sweet treat and a great coffee to round off your lunch, Peter’s Yard’s takeaway shop, a few paces behind its main place in the Quartermile, is the place to go for lip-smacking sorbet, ice-cream and delightful Swedish buns. 'Round the corner there's even a sourdough pizza branch. Delicious.

So, grab a pew, a spot in the sun, watch the world go by, this chap jam, and tuck in. Enjoy!